EUTHANASIA... Time to say goodbye

The life expectancy of a pet is generally much longer than that of a wild animal. Breed also has a significant influence on lifespan. At some stage it may become obvious that your pet's life is drawing to a close. It is then that you will face a painful and difficult decision on whether your pet should be taken to the vet to be put gently and painlessly to sleep.

When is euthanasia necessary?

Euthanasia (often called 'putting to sleep') is the term used by vets for the process of preventing the suffering of an animal that is too old or sick to have a happy and fulfilled life. It is never an easy decision and many owners understandably delay making it for as long as possible. Pain is not the only form of suffering, quality of life is important too and there are a number of situations in which euthanasia is the kindest thing to do for your cat.

Consider euthanasia if your pet is:

• Suffering untreatable pain.

• No longer able to eat or drink normally.

• Unable to breathe properly because their lungs and heart are diseased.

• No longer empty its bowels or bladder without pain or they are incontinent.

• Unable to stand or move normally.

• So blind, deaf or aged that it cannot cope with everyday living.

• Or if the emotional or financial demands of caring for your pet are more than you can manage.

What will happen?

Your vet may shave the fur from a patch of skin on one of your pet's front legs and insert a needle into a vein. Your pet will them give an overdose of a drug (similar to an anaesthetic). This will make your pet lose consciousness (and they will no longer be able to feel pain or fear). Your pet will be asleep in a very short time (usually a matter of seconds). Breathing and heart beat will stop a few seconds later. If your pet is fearful or aggressive it will often be given a sedative before the fatal injection is given.

Will my pet suffer?

The process is completely painless. In its last moments your cat may give a gasp. Your pet is asleep and the sound is caused by a spasm of muscles that is perfectly normal. Other muscles in your pet's body may also twitch and, as its body relaxes, your pet may empty his bowels or bladder.

Should I be there at the end?

Discuss in advance with your vet whether you wish to be with your pet when it is put to sleep. It may be less stressful for your pet to be held in your arms and to be able to hear a familiar voice. You may be comforted by knowing that your old friend suffered no pain and met a peaceful end. However, if you are frightened or anxious your pet may sense this and may also become upset.

Can my pet be put to sleep at home?

Vets usually prefer to see their patients at the clinic where all the equipment and trained staff they need is close at hand. But euthanasia is a special situation for both the vet and yourself and, if you want to have your animal put to sleep in its own home then most vets will do this.

When is the right time for euthanasia?

It is you who must decide whether, or when, euthanasia is the right thing for your pet. Your vet will be able to advise you on what the options are and make a sensible recommendation but will not make the decision for you. It is rare that a decision has to be made on the spur of the moment, so it is much better to make your choice after talking it over with your vet and with other members of your family.  It is important that all members of the family are involved in the decision-making process and that they are all in agreement. Do not exclude children from this - talking with them before the decision has been made may help them to come to terms with it.

How will I feel?

It is perfectly natural to feel grief after losing a pet and there is no shame in feeling strong emotions.  Sometimes the first response to a pet's death is anger or guilt. Often people wonder whether anyone could have done more for their pet. The depth of friendship with pets may be greater than that of many human friends and a period of mourning is quite normal. However, people experience grief in different ways and there are no hard and fast rules about what you will feel. It may help to have someone to take you home after your pet has been put to sleep so that you do not have to return to an empty house. Talking to friends and family is important, especially your children (if you have any).

How will my children cope?

Losing a pet is often the first time that a child becomes aware of death. It is usually best to be honest with a child and explain the truth as clearly as you can. Children may want time to say goodbye to their pet and seeing the dead body may help them understand what has happened. It can be very therapeutic to mark the occasion with some kind of memorial such as a burial. Talking about the happy times you shared will often help them and you to come to terms with the change in your lives. Children frequently get over the loss of a pet much more quickly than do adults.

What happens to my pet's body?

Your vet will explain what can be done with the body of your pet. They can arrange for your cat to be cremated, or you may choose to bury the body yourself. If you want to bury your pet in your garden check first with your local authority that this is allowed and make sure that the body is buried at least 2 feet (about 600 mm) below the surface. If your pet is cremated it is usually possible for your vet to arrange for you to have its ashes returned, but you must inform them of your wishes at the time of euthanasia.

Should I get another pet?

After the experience of losing a pet some people say they never want to own another pet. However, many others find that getting another pet helps them deal with their grief. The relationship you build with another pet will never be the same as the one you had, but it can be equally rewarding.

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Il Papillomavirus orale: cause, sintomi e cure

Malattia più comune di quanto si pensi, quella del papilloma orale nei cani è causato dal virus del papillomavirus canino (COPV). Il cane affetto da tale malattia di norma presenta sulla lingua e soprattutto sulle labbra dei noduli più o meno piccoli, dal caratteristico colore bianco tendente sul grigiastro con tanto di protuberanze. Il nodulo a tutta prima ricorda un piccolo cavolfiore.

Neoplasie benigne, queste tendono rapidamente a riassorbirsi e scomparire in maniera autonoma, in un tempo che normalmente varia dai cinque ai sei mesi. Ciò non toglie che in alcuni, seppure rarissimi casi il papilloma si trasformi da benigno a maligno. E’ per questo che si consiglia di tenere sotto controllo il cane affetto da questa patologia onde evitare che il male degeneri. 

La papillomatosi può presentarsi  in tre possibili forme differenti:
• la forma orale (la più frequente);
• la forma oculare;
• la forma cutanea.

La malattia si riscontra con maggiore frequenza nei cani giovani; si stima che i cani più soggetti a  papillomatosi  siano quelli che ancora non abbiano raggiunto i tre anni di vita, ciò non toglie che anche un cane adulto o addirittura anziano possa riscontrare i chiari sintomi della patologia. La possibilità di contrarre il male in questi ultimi aumenta notevolmente se in contatto con cani giovani visto che si tratta sostanzialmente di un’infezione di natura virale, fortemente contagiosa.
Il contagio avviene molto rapidamente, e si dimostra sufficiente il contatto diretto fra i papillomi del cane ammalato con le mucose di quello sano che sono ancora più in pericolo nel caso in cui queste presentino delle piccole abrasioni o ferite anche superficiali. E’ proprio li che il virus avrà cura di inocularsi diffondendosi di li a breve.
D’altronde riscontrare immediatamente la malattia è davvero difficile dato che dopo il contagio questa resta in incubazione per un periodo discretamente lungo che può variare fra i 30 e 60 giorni. L’incubazione si dimostrerà più duratura nei cani con ottimo sistema immunitario, che alla fine è costretto a cedere. E’ ancora il sistema immunitario che consente un naturale riassorbimento dei papillomi. Nel caso in cui questo non avvenga e il sistema immunitario non reagisca positivamente, col passare del tempo non solo i papillomi non spariranno, ma aumenteranno in volume e numero.

Quando questi vengono contagiati anche alla lingua del cane, la difficoltà di alimentazione aumenta gradualmente.
La dimensione e il numero dei papillomi dipende esclusivamente dalla rapidità con la quale il proprietario si sia accorto della malattia ed abbia portato il fedele amico a quattro zampe dal veterinario.
Nei casi più fastidiosi e difficili il veterinario potrà intervenire o chirurgicamente o con diverse altre metodiche. Nel caso di papilloma di grandi dimensioni, facilmente raggiungibile e ben localizzato, ma soprattutto singolo è probabile che il veterinario proceda con applicazioni topiche: si opterà dunque per pomate, gocce o unguenti tutti a base di sostanze che disgregando la cheratina permettono una facile eliminazione del papilloma.
Diverso il caso di papillomi piccoli e numerosi, che pure con il trascorrere del tempo non hanno dato cenno di voler migliorare. In questo caso si dovrà optare per attacchi tramite chemioterapia sistemica e tramite farmaci antineoplastici, che manco a dirlo, sarà il medico veterinario a dover prescrivere.

Quest’ultima cura si dimostra consigliata comunque ai proprietari che dispongono di molto tempo da dedicare al proprio animale. In caso contrario la soluzione chirurgica si dimostrerà sicuramente quella ideale. In alcuni casi anche la crioterapia si è dimostrata efficace. Attraverso l’applicazione di piccole sonde sul papilloma le cellule della zona verranno congelate e il virus contenuto in esse eliminato. Sembra addirittura che questa tecnica stimoli il sistema immunitario dell’amico a quattro zampe rendendolo più forte per eventuali nuovi attacchi da parte del virus.

fonti:cacciapassione.com

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A rischio salute cani, ogni razza ha la sua malattia

Boxer e golden retriever colpiti da cancro, traumi per chihuahua e pechinesi

ROMA - Cane che hai, problemi che incontri. A seconda della razza, della taglia e dell'eta' cambiano infatti le malattie che colpiscono questo animale con piu' frequenza. Di cancro si ammalano di piu' boxer e golden retriever, mentre barboncini e chihuahua sono piu' suscettibili ai traumi.

A rilevarlo, confermando statisticamente quello che molti veterinari e amanti dei cani sanno per esperienza, e' uno studio in cui sono stati raccolti dati sulle morti di 74mila cani tra il 1984 e il 2004 dal database di medicina veterinaria, il registro presso del National Cancer Institute che riceve segnalazioni da 27 ospedali universitari veterinari Usa.

La ricerca, pubblicata sul 'Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine', ha riscontrato ad esempio che i golden retriever e i boxer hanno il piu' alto tasso di cancro, la causa principale di morte tra i cani adulti, mentre le razze di taglia piu' piccola, come pechinesi e pomeranian, sono piu' longeve ma muoiono di piu' di traumi. Le malattie del sistema nervoso sono fatali invece per i cani piu' anziani, mentre le patologie gastrointestinali colpiscono in maniera uniforme i cani di tutte le eta'.

Le differenze ci sono anche a seconda della taglia e dell'eta'. Ad esempio le malattie del sistema muscolo-scheletrico sono piu' frequenti nei cani piu' grandi, che soffrono meno invece di disturbi neurologici ed endocrini, mentre i cani giovani sono piu' colpiti dalle infezioni. ''Si tratta di dati - commenta Claudio M. Rossi, direttore del Presidio veterinario del canile sanitario dell'asl di Milano - noti a livello di esperienza, confermati ora anche a livello statistico.

Vi sono delle razze piu' delicate di altre, come ad esempio i brachicefali, che per il loro muso schiacciato, selezionato per motivi estetici, hanno piu' problemi respiratori''. Certo e' che, come per gli uomini, anche per i nostri amici a quattro zampe oggi e' possibile diagnosticare malattie di cui fino a poco tempo era difficile avere una conferma scientifica, ''come ad esempio le patologie neurologiche - continua Rossi - e i problemi della colonna vertebrale, quali ernie e discopatie, per cui oggi si possono usare tac e risonanza''.

Senza contare i problemi legati all'invecchiamento. ''Anche i cani oggi vivono di piu' - conclude il veterinario - L'eta' media e' salita da 10 a 13-15 anni, con differenze a seconda della taglia. I cani piu' piccoli arrivano a 15 anni, mentre un pastore tedesco e' difficile che superi i 12 anni e un boxer gli 8-10 anni. Ma con l'aumento dell'eta' c'e' stata anche una crescita delle diagnosi di cancro, nonche' di piccoli ictus e problemi di tipo cognitivo''.

Fonti: ansa.it

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Con la freccia di balestra conficcata nel capo

Polizia Provinciale salva un Germano Reale.

di Marcella Porpora | 28 aprile 2011 

GEAPRESS – Un macabro gioco al bersaglio o, più semplicemente, un atto di bracconaggio quello che ha visto coinvolto un maschio di Germano Reale. Il volatile da circa un mese era stato notato nel torrente Cantarena, nel Comune di Arenzano (GE). Ma non tutti, evidentemente, ne hanno apprezzato la bellezza e rispettato la sua pacifica presenza.
Ignoti hanno, infatti, colpito l’animale con una balestra. La freccia, si è conficcata nel capo e solo per pochi millimetri non ha colpito organi vitali.
Già da alcune settimane la cosa era stata segnalata da cittadini allarmati nel vedere l’anatra selvatica con quel dardo sulla testa. Le stesse associazioni di protezione della fauna intervenute, però, non erano riuscite a prendere il volatile che,  giustamente, era estremamente diffidente nei confronti dell’uomo.
Infine, il difficile recupero è stato realizzato dalla Polizia Provinciale di Genova del Commissariato ponente. Gli agenti hanno collocato una rete barriera sotto l’arcata del  ponte che divide il tratto coperto del torrente da quello libero. Hanno, quindi, catturato l’animale con l’uso di guadini da pescatore, dopo averlo pian piano indirizzato verso il tratto schermato del corso d’acqua da cui il Germano Reale non poteva più involarsi velocemente.
Il Germano Reale è stato affidato alle cure dei veterinari di Animal Assistance e dell’ ENPA di Genova, che dovranno estrarre il dardo e occuparsi del recupero dell’animale.
La balestra è un mezzo illegale di caccia, eppure dai cinghiali (vedi articolo GeaPress) ai cani (vedi articolo GeaPress) sono numerosi i casi di animali colpiti dal suo micidiale dardo. (GEAPRESS – Riproduzione vietata senza citare la fonte).

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Microchipping

BackHome - The most effective way to address your pet's security

Lets face it, its impossible to keep track of your pets every minute of the day and night.  As a caring owner you'll know what a worry the prospect of them disappearing can be.  No matter how careful you are, there is always the chance that your pet will go astray.  And when you're away with your pet in unfamiliar surroundings it's all too easy to become separated.

You know how worrying such occasions are, but what can you do about it?

The trouble is you can't always rely on collars to bring your pet back.  They can break or become detached and owner and address details can become illegible.  As a result it may be impossible to trace ownership back to you when your pet is found and taken to the police, dog warden or other authorities.

Sadly pets which haven't been reunited with their owners are often put to sleep because animal rescue organisations whose accommodation is already at bursting point.  So what's the answer

It's time to inject a little technology.

BackHome is simple, neat and effective.  A tiny microchip the size of a grain of rice is injected under your pet's skin.  This microchip carries a code unique to you and your pet.  This code is entered onto a national computer database and appears on a certificate of identification issued to you.

When a special scanner is passed over your pet the BackHome chip responds by transmitting its unique code to the scanner.  It's as easy as using a supermarket bar-code reader.  The operator can read the code on the scanner's display and then refer to the national database to identify your name, address and phone number so that you and your pet can be reunited.

These microchip scanners are in routine use by veterinarians and municipal dog wardens all over the UK.  It's the same with pet rescue and animal welfare organisations like the RSPCA and SSPCA and the Cats Protection League.  Therefore whenever your pet is found, it is likely somebody will read his/her BackHome microchip.

Once this is done, the national database can be accessed rapidly by phone any time of the day and night.. So as soon as your pet's identity is discovered, the process of getting your pet BackHome can begin.

A small price to pay for a greater peace of mind.

Each pet requires a single BackHome microchip.  The process is completely safe and causes no more discomfort than other injections.  Pets of all sizes from small birds, exotics and fish to large dogs and horses can be chipped.  In the case of dogs and cats the preferred location is the scruff of the neck.

BackHome is inexpensive and the one-of-payment includes lifetime registration on the national database as well as all documentation.  It is a security measure which literally lasts for life.  BackHome microchipping represents excellent value for money and peace of mind.

How to get your pet microchipped with BackHome

When you next visit your veterinary practice, whatever the reason, simply ask about BackHome.  It's likely it can be done at the same visit.  The second vaccination of young pets is the ideal time to have them 'chipped'.  That way they're literally covered for life.

Fonte: any-uk-vet.co.uk westside vet clinic

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Feeding your dog

Although most pet dogs are now fed entirely on tinned or packaged food, their nutritional requirements are exactly the same as their ancestors' centuries ago. So to stay healthy, a domestic dog must receive a balanced diet containing all the nutrients that would be found in its natural diet. Dogs are adapted to eating a wide variety of food and can survive happily on an almost vegetarian diet which would make a cat very ill.

What makes up a balanced diet?

Your dog needs a balance of nutrients in his diet. The main parts of the diet will be protein (meat) and carbohydrates (dog biscuit). Protein is used to build the body tissues and carbohydrates provide energy.  Animal fat is important both as an energy source and because it contains essential vitamins like vitamin A.  Fat also gives flavour and texture to the food. There are many other essential ingredients of the diet such as vitamins and minerals. Most of these ingredients are either naturally present in, or added to, commercially prepared dog foods. In the wild, a dog would have a varied diet and be eating the whole animal (not just the meat) so a diet of lean steak will not give your dog everything he needs.

What is the best diet for my dog?

There are a wide range of commercially prepared foods to suit your dog's needs. However, if you see an unfamiliar brand in the shops, be cautious, especially if it is one of the cheaper foods. As in all things quality comes at a price, and a cheaper brand will often contain inferior ingredients. The well known brands are usually formulated to give your dog everything it needs. Your vet or veterinary nurse will be able to give you impartial and well-informed advice on feeding your pet.

How much should I feed my dog?

Dogs come in many shapes and sizes and have very different feeding requirements. Obviously smaller dogs tend to eat less than bigger ones and dogs which take a lot of exercise will need more food than 'couch potatoes'. Some dogs do not have good appetites and other breeds, such as the Labrador, are notoriously greedy. Every dog is an individual and any feeding recommendations are only a guide. Your dog may even need different kinds of food at different stage of its life. There are several stages during a dog's life when its food needs are greatly different from normal. These include:

• Pregnancy

• Growing dogs

• Old age

When do dogs need special diets?

• Pregnancy - A pregnant bitch (mother dog) needs to eat more food to support her unborn puppies.  During the final stages of pregnancy a bitch may need to eat twice as much food as normal.  However, the pressure of the growing puppies in her belly may stop her eating large meals. You may need to feed her more frequently or get a high-energy diet for pregnant bitches (your vet will be able to advise you on this). When your bitch is producing milk for her puppies (lactation) her appetite may increase even further.

• Puppyhood - During their first few months puppies grow exceptionally fast. This puts a big strain on the bitch and the puppies should be weaned on to solid food as soon as possible. Try giving some solid food at three weeks and gradually giving more until they eat only solid food at about eight weeks old. The first food should be soft and easily digestible so dry food should be soaked in water or puppy milk. A puppy's stomach is small so it cannot eat large volumes in one go. A puppy should be fed about five times a day at eight weeks and the frequency of meals can be gradually reduced to two a day when it reaches six months old. Your vet may recommend putting your puppy on a specially formulated high-energy diet to make sure that it gets a properly balanced diet for growth.

• Old age - Older dogs often becomes less active and may use up less energy - be careful about reducing its food intake too much. Older dogs are not as good at digesting their food so they may need to eat more food to get all the nutrients they need. There are conveniently prepared special diets available for the older dog which can be obtained from your vet.

Is obesity a problem in dogs?

If large quantities of tasty food are always available many dogs will overeat and particularly older, neutered dogs that spend most of their time indoors are most susceptible to putting on too much weight. Weigh your dog regularly to make sure he is not gaining or losing weight and adjust the amount you feed him if necessary. If your dog needs to lose weight your vet will be able to recommend a special low calorie diet.  Feeding time is often the highlight of a dog's day and so a good balanced diet is the key to a happy healthy pet.

Fonte: any-uk-vet.co.uk westside vet clinic

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Feeding your cat

The modern domestic 'moggie' is descended from wild cats that hunted for their living in the desert regions of North Africa and the Middle East. Although most pet cats are now fed entirely on tinned or packaged food, their nutritional requirements are exactly the same as their ancestors' centuries ago. So to stay healthy, a domestic cat must receive a balanced diet containing all the nutrients that would be found in the natural diet of a hunting cat. What is so special about a cat's diet? Cats differ from dogs and many other animals in being completely dependent on meat. Dogs can survive happily on an almost vegetarian diet that would make your cat very ill. A cat needs a high protein diet with components that are only found in animal tissue. Two of the building blocks of proteins the amino acids taurine and arginine, are rarely found in plant material. Your cat cannot manufacture its own taurine or arginine and has to get them from animal tissue. Your cat also needs vitamin A and a compound called arachidonic acid that can only be found in meat. What makes up a balanced diet? Your cat also needs a balance of other nutrients. Many of these are found in tissues forming part of the natural diet like bone and skin, so a diet of lean steak will not give your cat everything it needs. Most of these ingredients are either present in, or added to, commercially prepared cat foods. Animal fat is important both as an energy source and because it contains essential vitamins like vitamin A. Fat also gives flavour and texture to the food. The carbohydrates used for energy by humans and other animals are less important for cats because they use proteins for the same purpose. Indeed, a diet containing too much carbohydrate is likely to give a cat an upset stomach. Is milk necessary for good health? It is a myth that cats need to be given milk. Milk is certainly a good source of calcium for building bones but calcium is usually found in sufficient quantities in commercially prepared pet foods. As kittens are weaned they lose the ability to digest lactose, a sugar found in cow's milk. Too much milk may therefore give an adult cat diarrhoea. Water is the best thing for your cat to drink. As the cat is still, at heart, a desert animal it can survive on less water than many other animals. But it does need a regular supply of clean fresh water, particularly if it is being fed dried food. Canned food is three quarters water so cats fed on a moist diet may not be seen drinking. What if my cat loses its appetite? Anyone who has ever looked after a cat will know that they are very particular about their food. They all have individual preferences about which types of food they enjoy - cats often seem to enjoy a varied diet but will starve themselves rather than eat a food they do not like. Ill health or anxiety can also put a cat off its food. It may be possible to persuade a cat to eat by warming up the food to about 35°C, the temperature of freshly killed live prey (another option is to feed a powerful smelling and tasty food such as tinned fish or oxtail soup). Uneaten moist or canned food should be removed after about 20 minutes as stale food smells will reduce a cat's appetite even further. If your cat turns its nose up at an unfamiliar food there may be a good reason, cats appear to know instinctively when a food is lacking in essential nutrients. Is obesity a problem in cats? Generally cats are able to regulate the amount of food they eat and it is uncommon for them to become too fat (obese). However, if large quantities of tasty food are always available they may start to overeat and older, neutered cats that spend most of their time indoors are most susceptible. Weigh your cat regularly to make sure it is not gaining or losing weight and adjust the amount of food accordingly. To weigh your cat first get onto the scales yourself and record your weight, then pick up your cat and record the weight of both of you, finally deduct your weight from the second reading to find how much your cat weighs. Alternatively cats can be weighed in a carrying basket but remember to allow for the weight of the basket when calculating its weight. If your cat needs to lose weight your vet will be able to recommend a special low calorie diet but do not attempt to put your cat on a 'crash diet' as this could be very damaging to its health. Do all cats need the same food? There are several stages during your cat's life when its food needs are greatly different from normal. These include: • Pregnancy - A pregnant cat will need much larger amounts of food to support its unborn kittens.  During the final stages of pregnancy the queen (mother cat) may need double her normal quantity of food. However the pressure of the growing kittens in her belly may restrict her ability to eat large meals. Feed your cat more frequently or get a high energy diet especially formulated for pregnant cats. Your vet will be able to advise you on this. When your queen is producing milk for her kittens (lactation) her nutritional requirements may increase even further. • Kittenhood - During their first few months kittens will grow exceptionally fast. This puts a big strain on the mother cat and the kittens should be weaned on to solid food as soon as possible. Try giving some solid food at three weeks and gradually giving more until they eat only solid food at about eight weeks old. The first food should be soft and easily digestible so dry food should be soaked in water or kitten milk. A kitten's stomach is small so it cannot eat large volumes in one go. A kitten should be fed about five times a day at eight weeks and the frequency of meals can be gradually reduced to two a day when it reaches six months old. Your vet may recommend putting your kitten on a specially formulated high energy diet to guarantee that it gets the right balance of nutrients needed for growth. • Old age - As a cat becomes less active with age it may use up less energy but be careful about reducing its food intake too much. Older cats are also less efficient at digesting their food so they may need to eat relatively more food to absorb all the nutrients they need. There are conveniently prepared special diets available for the older cat that can be obtained from your vet. What is the best diet for my cat? There is a wide range of commercially prepared foods to suit your cat's needs. However, if you see an unfamiliar brand in the shops, be cautious, especially if it is one of the cheaper foods. As in all things quality comes at a price, and a cheaper brand will often contain inferior ingredients. The well known brands are usually formulated to give your cat everything it needs and have been tested to prove that they will be enjoyed by most cats. Your vet or veterinary nurse will be able to give you impartial and well-informed advice on feeding your pets. Fonte: any-uk-vet.co.uk westside vet clinic

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Fare il bagno a fido

Partiamo da una considerazione positiva: i cani non hanno bisogno di fare spesso il bagno.

Infatti bagni troppo frequenti potrebbero irritargli la pelle fino a causare dermatiti.

Quindi questa operazione dovrà essere fatta con parsimonia – ad esempio quando il cane è troppo infangato, o ha un odore troppo sgradevole – e soprattutto con una buona organizzazione.

Come prima cosa, abituate il vostro cane a fare il bagno fin da quando è cucciolo: l’abitudine all’acqua renderà tutto più semplice

La frequenza con cui lavare il cane è di massimo una volta al mese.

Alcuni consigli potranno esservi utili:

* Non cimentatevi nell’operazione da soli, ma cercate sempre qualcuno che vi aiuti

* In estate risolvete il problema lavando l’animale all’esterno e non in casa

* Mettete a portata di mano tutto l’occorrente: shampoo, prodotti specifici che intendete usare – e che vi ha consigliato il veterinario – spazzole, pettini, ecc.

* Potete scegliere la vasca o una capiente tinozza (dipende dalle dimensioni dell’animale) che potete posizionare sul piatto doccia o dentro la vostra vasca da bagno. Se scegliete la vasca posizionate sul fondo un tappetino antiscivolo.

* Riempite la tinozza (o la vasca) a metà con acqua tiepida

* Spazzolate bene il pelo del cane in modo da rimuovere nodi e pelo superfluo

* Inserite dei batuffoli di cotone o un pezzo di benda orlata ( meglio ) nelle orecchie in modo che l’acqua non entri.

* Immergete l’animale che tenderà a rimanere in piedi per tutta l’operazione; non tentate di farlo sdraiare nell’acqua, non ci riuscirete!

* Iniziate dalla parte posteriore del corpo: bagnatelo con una caraffa piena d’acqua o con la doccia e solo quando è tutto bagnato procedete con lo shampoo specifico per cani

* Lasciate per ultima la testa e fate attenzione a non mandare shampoo e acqua negli occhi e nelle orecchie.

* Sciacquatelo bene assicurandovi che non restino tracce di shampoo.

* Prendetelo in braccio e appoggiatelo su un tappetino che avrete preventivamente preparato

* Asciugatelo con un asciugamano pulito e solo dopo utilizzate il phon tenendolo ad una distanza di almeno 20/30 centimetri.

Il bagno è l’occasione per osservare bene il pelo (ricordatevi comunque che una certa perdita di pelo è fisiologica non solo ai cambi di stagione) e la pelle dell’animale: arrossamenti, presenza di forfora, chiazze con pelo diradato, opacità del manto ecc.

In questi casi rivolgetevi al veterinario che vi consiglierà la terapia da seguire.

Autore:  DOTT.SSA LAURA JURILLI

Cani.com

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Patentino per cani pericolosi

E stato presentato a Roma dal sottosegretario alla salute Francesca Martini il corso formativo per proprietari di cani pericolosi previsto dall ordinanza del 3 marzo 2009. Un programma di formazione che,ha come obiettivo "la creazione del corretto rapporto uomo-cane, spesso mal gestito nella nostra società". E un corso gratuito, che verra organizzato e offerto ai cittadini dalle amministrazioni locali.

Un corso assolutamente volontario, che e reso obbligatorio solo per i proprietari dei cani "a rischio elevato". i cani a "rischio elevato",verranno segnalita ai veterinari dai padroni stessi, dopo aver riscontrato un comportamento anomalo nei loro amici a quattro zampe.

Il libro di testo del corso e formato da una trentina di pagine scritte da alcuni veterinari;da lacune linee guida per il rapporto tra uomo e cane e da suggerimenti sui campanelli d allarme che "quasi sempre" precedono i fenomeni di aggressivita, e che possono non essere colti o interpretati nella giusta maniera. I corsi cominceranno subito, e sara cura dei cittadini sollecitarli alle amministrazioni. "L istituzione del patentino per i proprietari e detentori di cani - secondo le intenzioni del Ministero - e un ulteriore passo in avanti nel panorama legislativo nazionale a tutela delle persone ma anche e soprattutto dei cani stessi".

Fonte: cani.com

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Spay and neuter operation in Dogs and Cats

First, some basic reproductive terminology:
Spayed = a female cat or dog who has had both ovaries and uterus surgically removed, and is not capable of producing offspring.Neutered = a male cat or dog who has had both testicles surgically removed, and is not capable of producing offspring. Also known as castration. Some refer to "neutered" as a male or female dog that has been surgically altered to render them sterile (testicles removed or ovaries removed, making them not capable of producing offspring).Related terms: desexed, fixed, alteredIntact = not spayed or neutered, the animal has reproductive organs capable of producing offspring. Queen = intact female catTom = intact male catBitch = intact female dogDog = intact male dog

For the purpose of this article, intact female cats and dogs will be referred to as the "pet" or "patient".

Is spaying a major surgery?
Yes, because it involves surgically entering the abdomen, it is considered "major surgery". This should not frighten pet owners however, since this surgery is a routinely performed one, and very safe. There are inherent risks with any anesthesia or surgical procedure, and talking over your fears and concerns with your veterinarian should help you understand any special risks that your pet may have. (For more on the actual surgery, see below.)

I've heard that my pet should have a heat cycle first -- she will be a better pet.
I've heard that my pet should have a litter first -- she will be a better pet. 
These are two common misconceptions about spaying. You will do so much more for the health of your pet by spaying before the first heat. It has been reported that by doing so, you will reduce the chance of mammary (breast) cancer in your pet by as much as 97% over their lifetime. The chance of other reproductive cancers (uterine, ovarian, mammary) and uterine infection is eliminated in spayed animals. Even after the first heat, spaying will reduce the risks of certain cancers and eliminate reproductive organ disease.

Providing a loving environment for your pet, proper health care, and proper training will be the most influential benefit to maintaining a happy pet that fits into your family.

I want to spay my pet, but it is too expensive for me at this time. What can I do? 
First, speak with your veterinarian. Some practices offer spay packages as part of a puppy vaccination package, have a "spay day" (reduced price spays on a certain day), or a reduced spay fee for those who demonstrate need. Many shelters and humane organizations work with veterinarians to provide spay vouchers and other funding to those who are unable to afford spaying. Pet overpopulation is a HUGE problem in the United States and many countries around the world -- don't contribute to the problem of unwanted puppies and kittens simply due to lack of funding, if possible. There are alternative means of funding.

Non-spayed females have an increased risk cancer (uterine, ovarian, mammary) and an increased risk of a life-threatening uterine infection as they get older.

Why does my vet want to do pre-surgery blood work on my pet?
Many veterinarians offer pre-anesthesia screening to their patients, and may have you sign a waiver if you decline these blood tests. Why is this so important? It provides a way to assess kidney and liver function prior to undergoing anesthesia among other things. The liver and kidneys are the primary routes that the anesthetics are broken down and removed from the body. If they aren't working well, then anesthesia may be more of a risk. There are many anesthetic agents available, and your veterinarian may also use the blood screening information to determine the best anesthetic protocol for your pet.

What happens during the surgery? Your pet will be sedated and anesthetized so she won't feel any pain or be aware of what is happening. Her breathing and heart rate will be closely monitored by the veterinary staff. The surgeon makes a small incision on her abdomen (belly area) and removes the two ovaries and uterus, usually just above the cervix. All vessels and tissues are ligated (tied off) to prevent bleeding and lessen chances of post-operative bleeding or infection. Once the ovaries and uterus are removed, the surgeon begins the closure of the body wall and skin -- muscle, subcutaneous, and skin are sutured (stitched) back together. Your pet may have absorbable sutures, skin staples, or sutures visible in the skin that will need to be removed by your vet 10-14 days after surgery. Click here for a pictorial description of a dog spay surgery.Click here for a pictorial description of a cat spay surgery. (Warning - surgical photos may not be suitable for all viewers.)

My other vet let me take my pet home the same day. This vet wants to keep her overnight. Why?
For the exact answer, you will need to ask your vet, but this will vary from practice to practice, vet to vet, and even patient to patient. There isn't a "right" or "wrong" answer. It is very important to keep your pet as quiet as possible activity-wise, prevent excessive licking of the incision, and to go slow initially and monitor food and water intake. Also, if your pet experienced any surgical or anesthetic complications, your vet may want to keep her overnight for further observation. If you work or won't be home immediately after picking up your pet, you may want to ask your vet about keeping your pet for a while longer for observation and monitoring.

How soon will she be "back to normal"?
Most people are surprised at how quickly their pets recover from surgery (certainly much sooner than their human counterparts!) Most pets are up and alert shortly after surgery, and after resting quietly for a day or two, most are back to their "normal" self. It is very important to restrict activity in those pets who are very active -- too much activity can actually delay healing or cause post surgical complications, such as dehiscence (opening of sutures) or bleeding.

Text: Copyright © Janet Tobiassen Crosby. All rights reserved.

Fonti: vetmedicine.about.com

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